Overlanding Uganda: Chaotic Borders, Rolex Snacks, and Face to Face with Elephants

After Rwanda, Uganda is next on our route: a green, hilly East African country we spend a good two weeks exploring.

The Rwanda-Uganda Border Crossing: A Chaotic Start to Our 4×4 Trip Through Uganda

What a confusing border crossing this was! None of the buildings have signage, and the bureaucracy follows its own distinctly African logic. First we stamp Donkey out of Rwanda, then stamp her into Uganda, and only after that are we officially allowed to cross ourselves. Add a complicated mandatory bank transfer to the mix, and you know it’s going to take a while. Two hours later, we finally roll into Uganda. Clock forward one hour, switch to driving on the left, and go! Our first impression in Kisoro, with a delicious chicken curry in our bellies, is immediately a good one.

Unexpected Hospitality and a Taste of Village Life

As we drive toward Bwindi National Park, the tropical rain comes pouring down. No gorillas spotted, but plenty of warmth at a lovely community campsite in Nyarurambi. The helpfulness here is heartwarming: when a pile of stones blocks the muddy road, locals appear almost instantly with shovels to clear the way for Donkey.

At the campsite, the owner’s eyes go wide when we pop open Donkey’s rooftop tent — he’s never seen anything like it. To round off the day perfectly, two local guys sort us out with a couple of “rolexes” — Uganda’s signature snack of chapati wrapped around fried egg. Later on we wander into the village, where we wait an hour for a meal of pork and potatoes. We don’t mind one bit  perched on our bench, we completely lose track of time chatting with the locals and taking in village life around us.

A Geography Lesson and Wild Camping Among Elephants at Queen Elizabeth National Park

Along a pretty rough transit road through Queen Elizabeth National Park  where we spot buffalo and kob (a type of antelope)  we drive to a campsite just outside the park. That evening we share a drink with Alexander, the manager. What starts as a friendly chat turns into a full-on geography lesson. He asks us, completely seriously, which continent the Netherlands is on, then wants to know everything about the rest of Europe too. It’s a sharp reminder of the state of education here.

At our next stop, Songbird Lodge, the wilderness really does come knocking. While we’re sitting by the car, a massive elephant strolls right past our camp  not once, but three times. Impressive, and honestly a little nerve-wracking, especially when one of them starts taking a real interest in Donkey. Luckily, a staff member appears out of nowhere with a long stick to gently send the giant on its way

Hippos as Neighbors and the Call of the Chimpanzee

After a few glorious, relaxed days on the shore of Lake George where hippos literally graze on the grass right next to us in the evenings  we drive on to the historic Hotel Masindi. From here we head into the forest in search of chimpanzees. After ninety minutes of tracking with our guide, we suddenly hear them calling. An incredible, powerful sound that echoes through the trees and leaves a deep impression.

From a beautiful campsite on the Nile, where we take in the view of the Busowoko Falls, we slowly make our way further east.

Wobbly Knees at Sipi Falls

We settle in at an incredible campsite overlooking the Sipi Falls. Together with a guide, we tackle a challenging hike past four different waterfalls, cutting right through villagers’ backyards where everyone is busy preparing the land for planting season.

The absolute highlight? A steep descent down a wobbly ladder that suddenly puts us underneath and behind the roaring waterfall. What a rush! For days afterward, Miranda’s thighs are so sore that just getting in and out of the car becomes an attraction of its own.

Following a stunning, winding mountain road, we finally set course for the border with Kenya.

Uganda, You Were Beautiful!

What a diverse, green, and intensely hilly country. The friendly people, the striking nature, and the spontaneous encounters meant we traveled through with the biggest of smiles!