Mozambique Overlanding Route: Back to Tofo, Border Bureaucracy, and the Hunt for Diesel

More than 10 years ago, we were in Mozambique already  back then in Tofo, on the coast and even at the time we said to each other: we want to see more of this place someday. Now, at last, the moment has come, and we’re setting off on our Mozambique overland route. We’re standing at the border, ready for a new adventure!

Our Mozambique overlanding route begins: bureaucracy and double road tax at the border

Immigration goes smoothly, but at customs we run straight into African bureaucracy. The officer insists we pay road tax twice for our route the mandatory road tax you have to pay in cash at border crossings in many African countries. We know this is nonsense and decide to stand our ground. The man gets angrier and angrier, theatrically counting out his dollars from a drawer, but we don’t budge. Eventually he backs down, the signatures get stamped, and we drive into Mozambique.

Since it’s already late, we quickly look for a wild camping spot for our first night. 

Flat tires and the great diesel crisis

The next morning we head out early toward Tete. Along the way we pass plenty of police checkpoints, but everywhere we stop for a friendly chat. And then we get our very first flat tire of the trip. A plug won’t cut it, so we swap the whole wheel and continue on to Benga, a quiet village on the Zambezi River, where we camp at a beautiful farm. Miranda settles in and crochets a few baskets for the cupboard while we get the flat tire repaired.

Then the real challenge begins: finding diesel. Fuel is nowhere to be found because of the war in Iran. We already start drawing up a backup plan to divert into Zimbabwe, because without fuel our adventure in Mozambique grinds to a halt. But luck is on our side. In a tiny village we suddenly stumble across a pump with diesel. We fill Donkey right up and drive on, relieved, to a beautiful forest reserve, where we spend the evening enjoying a crackling campfire. [iOVERLANDER LINK: forest reserve camping Mozambique]

Dead-end roads and a warm welcome in Zinave National Park

After a big detour — the road simply stopped, literally, after two hours of driving  we head toward Zinave National Park, a nature reserve in central Mozambique where wildlife is currently being reintroduced after years of poaching. The rangers are thrilled to see tourists again and we get an incredibly warm welcome. They even drive ahead of us to show us the campsite.

Link to Zinave Nationalpark

We’re allowed to wild camp beside a stunning lagoon full of birdlife, and for days we spot nyala, kudu, and impala coming down to drink. We also meet Andrea and Andreas, a fun German overlanding couple, and immediately start swapping stories.

Seven days on the Indian Ocean in Inhassoro

From there we travel on to Inhassoro for seven wonderful days at a campsite on the Indian Ocean. Together with another overlanding couple, we buy fresh fish on the beach we have to keep a close eye on the seller’s creative use of the scale  and after that we take the motorbike taxi into the village every day to eat local food. Each day we tell the restaurant owner in advance what we’d like to eat the next day. And every time, we’re amazed all over again when he first brings out the standard meal (chicken, rice, and salad). Then he apologizes, and only after that does he finally serve us the meal we’d actually agreed on. Strange, but delicious every single time!

Police humor, a birthday cake, and a magical dune camp

Since it’s almost Miranda’s birthday, we drive toward Tofo for caffè latte and cake. On the way we get flashed by the police for speeding. We argue the point and refuse to pull over until we get our license back. When we eventually drive back to check the speed limit signs, it turns out the police are suddenly driving straight toward us. We wave at each other and share a laugh these were indeed the same officers who’d just pulled us over! Back at the checkpoint, there’s not an officer in sight; apparently they’d decided they’d had enough excitement for one day. At a local restaurant we run into Andrea and Andreas again and decide to keep traveling together.

A 4×4 dune route through Inhambane

We visit the colonial town of Inhambane and drive a beautiful 4×4 route through the dunes. After lunch on a white beach beside a lake, we go looking for a particular wild camping spot, but it turns out not to fit two vehicles. We end up on Olga’s property instead. We close out our shared journey around a braai (South African barbecue) and a campfire.

Mozambique, you surprised us

The next day we say our goodbyes and set course for the border with Eswatini. With a bit of an ache in our hearts, we leave Mozambique behind.

What a country. It’s impossible to ignore that we’re in one of the poorest countries in Africa — the houses are very simple, often with reed walls, and people are thin, often in torn and dirty clothing. But what we love about Mozambique is the raw, untouched nature, the incredibly friendly, easygoing people, and the wonderful food. Mozambique surprised us in every way. One thing’s for sure: we’ll be back.